蘇州服裝設計培訓學校
“I always wore my father’s things,” says Margherita Cardelli, half of the duo behind a new Italian line, Giuliva Heritage Collection.
“我以前經(jīng)常穿我父親的衣服,”Margherita Cardelli說道。她是意大利品牌線Giuliva Heritage Collection的雙人設計師之一。
When she met the lawyer and designer Gerardo Cavaliere, now her partner in business and life, the habit continued. “I started to steal from his wardrobe.”
當她與自己如今的生意伙伴兼伴侶Gerardo Cavaliere(他是一位律師、設計師)相遇時,這種習慣得以延續(xù)下來。“我開始從他的衣櫥里偷衣服穿了?!?
Cardelli, who consults on communications for brands like Alberta Ferretti and Moschino, saw an opportunity to create something new for women: an edited collection of outerwear based on quintessential men’s cuts.
Cardelli為Alberta Ferretti、Moschino等品牌提供通信咨詢服務。她在工作期間,發(fā)現(xiàn)了一個為女性創(chuàng)造一些新鮮東西的機會:根據(jù)男裝的精華剪裁,為女性設計一系列外套。
The brand launched earlier this year with just six pieces, including a wool trench, a velvet dinner jacket and a “super ’90s,” double-breasted cashmere camel overcoat. The focus, says Cardelli, is on “very classic coats you should have in your wardrobe.”
該品牌誕生于今年年初,僅推出了六款服裝。其中包括一件羊毛trench風衣、一件天鵝絨無尾禮服、一件90年代風格的雙排紐扣羊絨混駝毛外套。Cardelli表示,該系列服裝的重點在于它們屬于“衣櫥必備的經(jīng)典外套?!?
Coats were a natural place to start for Cardelli, who grew up in Italy’s Abruzzo region. The rugged, alpine landscape — which she compares to the lowlands of Idaho or Montana — never gets too warm, and “even in summer,” Cardelli says, “you always need something to cover your shoulders.”
對Cardelli而言,從外套起步似乎是一件自然而然的事情。她在意大利的崎嶇山區(qū)Abruzzo區(qū)長大。她將那里比作美國愛達荷州或蒙大拿州的低地,溫度永遠都不會太高,“即使是在夏天,”Cardelli說道,“肩上也總得搭一件外套。
Indeed, it was a trip to Campo Imperatore, an expansive mountain grassland in Abruzzo’s L’Aquila Province, that helped the couple crystallize the idea for Giuliva Heritage.
”事實上,正是在Abruzzo區(qū)的一場旅游讓這對夫婦下定決心推出Giuliva Heritage。當時,他們正前往位于Abruzzo區(qū)L’Aquila Province的廣闊草原Campo Imperatore旅游,
“The excitement about this place, for both of us, inspired our collection.”
“那里令我們兩人都感到很興奮,給了我這個系列的靈感?!?
After positive reception, Cardelli and Cavaliere have grown the collection significantly for spring/summer 2018 to include lighter-weight options in vintage linen and gabardine.
由于該系列反響較好,Cardelli與Cavaliere對其進行了進一步開發(fā),推出了2018春夏系列,采用優(yōu)質亞麻與華達呢,提供更加輕便的選擇。
Two shorter styles — a broad-collared safari jacket and a riding blazer called the Karen — nod to Meryl Streep’s costumes in Sydney Pollack’s “Out of Africa” (“We’re obsessed with that movie,” Cardelli says).
他們推出了兩款短款設計,向Sydney Pollack指導的電影《走出非洲》中Meryl Streep的服裝致敬(“我們特別喜歡那部電影,”Cardelli說道)。這兩款衣服分別為:闊領旅行夾克與名為Karen的騎行上衣。
Eventually, the pair hope to expand to trousers and skirts, but they’re not in a rush. “It really depends on Gerardo,”— who Cardelli calls the “genius” behind Giuliva — “and when he finds the perfect fit.”
這對夫婦希望日后能夠進軍褲子、襯衫領域,但是這只是他們的長遠目標,現(xiàn)在并不著急?!斑@主要看Gerardo。等他找到完美的設計的時候,就可以了?!盋ardelli認為Gerardo是Giuliva背后的“天才”。
For now, handmade leather belts lend the collection versatility: Most of the poplin or twill-lined coats can be belted and worn comfortably as dresses.
目前,手工制成的皮質腰帶令該系列的功能變得更加豐富:大多數(shù)府綢或斜紋布料制成的衣服都可以系腰帶,變成裙子,穿起來很舒服。
Cardelli insists that the Heritage Collection “is absolutely not fashion.” She and Cavaliere (whose uncle was a master tailor in Salerno) share a reverence for traditional tailoring, and their innovations are subtle: an extra-high cut at the back of a trench; delicate mother-of-pearl buttons on a broad-shouldered overcoat. “We’re not inventing anything,” she says. “We’re just reinterpreting what we think is timeless.”
Cardelli堅稱Heritage Collection“絕對不是時裝。”她與Cavaliere(他叔叔是意大利Salerno市一位裁縫大師)都非常崇拜傳統(tǒng)剪裁,而他們的創(chuàng)新也非常精妙:trench風衣后側的剪裁特別高,闊肩外套上縫著精致的珍珠母紐扣?!拔覀儾皇窃趧?chuàng)造任何東西,”她說道?!拔覀冎皇窃谥匦玛U釋那些我們認為是永恒的物品?!?
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